The Up and Down Day - Day 38 (May 21)

I am certain that if anyone is reading these posts, they are growing weary of doing so. We are definitely weary ourselves. Our bodies are tired of the constant pounding on the feet, the joints, the muscles. Our emotions are becoming raw. Our minds were feeble to begin with but seem to have dwindled even more. We can't remember where we were when, only where we are going. This section of the Camino is supposed to be one of rebirth - I am hopeful for that.

50K to Santiago

Today's terrain has been reflective of our mood - up and down. There have been no mountains to climb. No vistas so see. Just up and down hills sharing time between forest paths and paths along the highway. We are equally up and down. We are so ready to be done with the wear and tear on our bodies from walking each day but at the same time sad to think our journey is nearly at an end. Conflict.

Started our walk today at a momentous spot - 50 kilometres from Santiago! Deciding to wait to eat until the first available stop 6 kilometres in, we were quite hungry by the time we arrived and devoured a plate of eggs, bacon and toast.

As on previous days, we continue through farm and pasture land with cows dotting the hillsides. One cow found a way to get into a plastic-wrapped bale of hay and was enjoying the morsels he found there. We finally saw one of the unique structures for drying corn in use, many cobs of corn stacked inside. Also, once more we witnessed a field being fertilizd with manure. This time he ran out of the "rich stuff" before it overcame us.

We had a picnic lunch of chorizo sausage, banana, carrots and a chocolate croissant in a pasture area surrounded by dried up cowpies. Just like when I was a kid - picnic in the pasture!

One of the downs we experienced that was not related to the terrain, was a tour bus that picked up and deposited a medium-sized group of oriental quasi-moto pilgrims. They were really more akin to tourists with the tour guide providing snacks and lunch along the way. We are trying not to be critical because everyone has their own journey and they certainly were a happy group.

Gentle Path

With very few albergues on this stretch, we made a reservation yesterday at one in Salceda. They had only one room left and we took it. On our arrival, we discovered it was really more of a hotel room which cost 45 euros, significantly more than the 10-20 euros we were spending for our bunks in the albergues. But even more importantly, we didn't feel we were quite ready to embrace the world of hotels. We are definitely going to stay in an albergue our last night of the Camino, in a 500 bed one, to be exact! Although many people would choose to not stay in these shared rooms, for us it has been a part of the Camino culture and added to the experience.

I keep forgetting to mention what I have termed my Camino (or Peregrino) tan. It is basically a farmer's tan with white strips across the top of the hands (from the trekking pole handles) thrown in. If it had been warmer, you could have added white feet and ankles. Very fashionable, I think!

I also keep forgetting to talk about "softies" and "suckies".

We have affectionately given the name "softies" to the tips for our trekking poles. We could not have done this walk without the use of trekking poles. In addition to helping take the load off our bodies, they have saved us from falling several times. They also helped develop a walking rhythm and kept our hands from swelling. The thing is, the path keeps changing from hard surface to dirt surface. On hard surface the clicking sound of the metal tips drives us crazy but on dirt these same tips help grab the ground so.... they go on, they go off. Sometimes many times a day. Because putting the tips on muffles the clicking sound, we started calling our tips "softies".

As for "suckies", this is what we called the organic energy chews I brought. They helped keep our mouths moist when we were panting for breath as we climbed hills. Theoretically, they also gave us a little energy boost. Unfortunately, I think we needed more energy than these little guys could provide so didn't really notice any help in that regard.

At the end of tomorrow we will be just 5 Kilometres from Santiago. Not sure if we are prepared for how we will feel when we arrive. My understanding is that people had a host of emotion from disappointment to joy. I have no way of knowing what my response will be. Not sure I am ready to find out.

Lesson for the Day: Life has it's ups and downs, but just like a roller coaster, it adds to the ride.

 

 

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Only Three Days Left - Day 37 (May 20)

What?? It is only 5 in the morning and I am hearing a shower? Yesterday our roommates didn't awake until 7 and this morning nearly everyone in the large room of beds was awake and about ready to head out the door by 5:30. So that is when we gave up and joined the throng. We were out of the door at 6:30, before the sun even came up.

This change is largely an outcome, I believe, of the new pilgrim on the path. They seem to be in a hurry to get out and head to their destination to beat others to the available rooms. As it turned out, we were glad to start our day early as we had planned our longest day yet, 30 kilometres. This was so we would stand a better chance of a short day into Santiago. And we did not worry about a room as our destination, Melide, seemed to have several albergues with a number of beds.

Painted Mushrooms

This section of the Camino path was the least scenic with much of it running along the highway. Additionally, because we are no longer climbing mountains, there were no real vistas to thrill the eyes. In fact, one of the more interesting sights were some rocks that someone had painted and placed on stumps to make them look like mushrooms.

We did have a nice conversation, at least I think it was nice for the little Spanish I understood, with a farmer who had just milked his cows and was carrying the "leche" in bright blue pails into the house.

A stop for a ham and egg breakfast was not our favorite. Fred's eggs were scorched on the bottom and mine were cold. I did have some fresh orange juice that was great. This is something I am really going to miss when we return home. Most establishments here have a device for making fresh "zumo de naranja naturale". They throw whole oranges into the top and out comes the absolute best orange juice. One wall of this restaurant was decorated with what were likely left behind pilgrim hats and my beloved Tilley Hat nearly became one of them!

Wall of Lost Hats

This was probably the most uneventful and outside of accomplishing a 30K day, our most disappointing day on the Camino. We were pleased with our albergue and the ability to get our clothes washed but otherwise it was not a very exciting day. Not many pictures either. Perhaps some of this stems from the desire to be done walking and arrive in Santiago. We are preparing ourselves for that emotional day - one where we are glad to be done but sad it is over.

Lesson for the Day: Don't leave your hat behind, it might end up on someone's wall.

 

 

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A Push to the End - Day 36 (May 19)

We have come to rely on the stirrings of fellow peregrinos to serve as our alarm each day. They failed us today. I was the first to wake at 7:00 a.m., an entire hour later than usual. Still, we managed to get started on our walk by 8:15 after a quick cup of coffee.

Our walk today Continued on through farming countryside intermingled with sections through forest, a rock wall all along the way. There were some very interesting small structures that we really couldn't determine what they were. They are difficult to even describe. Perched atop a stand, they are very narrow (3-4 feet) and long (12-16 feet), the sides made with bricks containing holes, the top typically adorned with a spire at each end.

Corn Drying Huts

After some distance we made a quick stop for a cup of coffee and erroneously ordered an almond cake when we really wanted a sponge cake. When we told the barista that we really wanted a sponge cake, instead of being frustrated with us, he said if that was the only problem he had today, it would be a good day! Such a great attitude!

We had braced ourselves for what we believed would be a steep decline over rocks into the town of Portomarin but it was not nearly as bad as we had read. On the way down, we saw so much evidence of the small and poor family farm - a shepherd with his flock of sheep including some tiny lambs, a woman washing clothes in a big outdoor basin, and a man who had stopped pushing his wheelbarrow to visit with a neighbor over a rock wall. Most notable was a farmer spreading manure over his field, the odor strong enough it nearly brought tears to the eyes. Even for me who was used to this from growing up on a farm that had this same practice, it was overwhelming. A bicyclist rode by, one hand on the handlebar, one holding his nose!

Beautiful Camino Path

The approach into Portomarin was on a bridge spanning a lake. The wind heavy to our side and the water swirling below made me a bit dizzy. Reaching the other side, we walked up several steps through an arch and found a store to buy some new laces for Fred's boots, a bank for some cash and a restaurant for some nourishment.

We made the decision that we didn't not want to stay with the throngs in Portomarin so risked walking to the next town, 8 kilometres away, in hopes we would get there before our reservation expired at 5:00. We pushed ourselves and made the walk in an hour and forty-five minutes, record time for us.

The albergue, Casa Garcia, was a very nice place to stay with a great dinner. We also met another Irishman, Tom, who has walked from St. Jean 30 - 40 kilometres a day. Simply amazing - I would be dead at a pace like that!

We are challenged with how to proceed in the few days we have left on the Camino. We want to make our day before Santiago a short one, in part so we can arrive in time to attend the noon mass where they will be incorporating the botafumeria into the service and also so we can see Christine before she heads back to Germany. Unfortunately, that means the next three days will be 17-20 mile days. We will see.

Lesson of the Day: Don't count on others to be your alarm clock.

 

 

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Beyond Sarria - Day 35 (May 18)

We awoke to a delightful foggy mist over the city. We weren't sure if it meant we were shrouded in a cloud laying low in the valley and would walk through it or if it would remain with us for the day. We would find out. We were told there was nowhere to get a cup of coffee in town, but as we made our way out of town, we discovered one open on the outskirts of town and stopped for a quick cup and bite to eat.

Female Peregrino

We finally came upon the first statue of a woman peregrino in a park outside of town. The route continued along the river; with the mist providing a sense of calm and tranquility, we were convinced that our choice to go to Samos the previous day was the correct one. The path rambled through one quaint small farm village after another, each with their own little church or chapel. There were also small little huts that were placed next to the river, for what purpose we were not sure.

Among the deciduous trees towered a few columnar cypress, all seemingly placed in a row. Although there were not homesteads next to them, it seemed as if they must have been planted by someone and we found ourselves wondering by whom, when and why. A fun discovery was a meadow filled with small yellow lupines, their sunny heads peering above the grass.

Yellow Lupines

Going up a narrow rock strewn path, we thought we must be close to a road as we heard the sound of what seemed to be cars. A short time later, we were surprised to find a tractor coming at us! Surely, this was not big enough for him and us but as we pressed ourselves against the rock wall, he managed to pass us by without event.

Nearly to Sarria, there was an older man by the side of the road wrestling with a large sickle as he cut the grass in the ditch. Made me think of my grandpa. A little further on, we came upon an old woman hunched over as she pulled her oxygen tank, stopping to catch what little breath she could. Made me think of my mom.

The atmosphere of the Camino seemed to change a bit in Sarria. This is the shortest distance a peregrino can walk and obtain a Compestella in Santiago so there are many new pilgrims on the path. It is also from here that we need to remember to obtain two stamps each day as required.

We made what was hopefully our last stop at a farmacia for another tube of Voltaren, some omeprazole, and cough drops. What took me much effort and cost me $62 to get a single tube of Voltaren is obtainable over the counter in Spain. And the entire bill for everything we bought was 14 euros! We think we might make one more stop at a farmacia before we head home and load up on some of these helpful medications!!

Foggy Mist

We did not want to stay in Sarria, instead wanted to start to hit places that were in-between the Brierely recommended stop points. While we respect that many people can only walk this last part of the Camino, after 35 days of walking, we are tired and feel a bit out of place with these new peregrinos who have the enthusiasm we had at the start. So we continued on for another four kilometres to stay at Barbadelo. The path between Sarria and Barbadelo wandered through a old forest where fallen soldiers showed their unique burl roots.

Foggy Mist Path

Arriving at our chosen albergue at just 2:00, this was a short day for us but we were ready for a catch-up day of laundry and blogging/journaling. We got settled in and sat in the sun on their deck drinking wine, eating olives and enjoying the afternoon. Dinner there was one of the best peregrino meals we have had. I finally had chicken breast instead of a leg and thigh! Plus the dessert was heavenly.

After dinner, we saw Heidi sitting across the room and motioned for her to join us. We had such a delightful conversation with this beautiful young woman from Estonia, learning a bit about her country.

When we got back to our room, the six other peregrinos with home we shared this space, were already in bed. So we decided it would be good to join them in an early night's sleep. We should be ready for the next day!

Lesson for the Day: Tolerance.

 

 

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Change of Plans - Day 34 (May 17)

It seems that as we continue on our pilgrimage, I get further and further behind on my posts. Days seem to blur together. The constant crunch, crunch, crunch of footsteps seem to have that effect on me. I can't remember what towns I have gone through. I can't remember what I saw, only that it was wonderful. If I didn't have my pictures to refer back to, I would remember only vague generalities with snippets of specifics. Sometimes I think that is what the pilgrimage should be. Yet, I want to remember so much and my pictures help provide that for me. So... pictures I continue to take.

After a quick breakfast in our albergue, Albergue Reboleira, we headed out in anticipation of what we would see today. Our immediate destination was Triacastela with a decision to make on two alternate paths once we arrived there.

Clouded Valley

Our morning was met with the most beautiful view - a valley filled with a blanket of white clouds. We hoped that we would stay above it, rather than descend into it. Along the road there was a farmer who headed out to a pasture, beer bottle in hand, to a cow in obvious need of milking. A calf was laying silently right next to our path. As I imagined, the mother had abandoned her calf and the farmer was doing what any good farmer would, acting as surrogate as best he could.

Feeding Calf

The downhill walk was much easier than we were led to believe it would be, really more of a gentle decline. We stopped at one of the nicest restaurants we have seen along the way for a cup of coffee. Actually, it was more of a stop for a restroom break with a great cup of coffee thrown in. So far, most of the time, there are bar/restaurants spaced frequently enough that we have not had to resort to the "going back to nature" approach. In fact to reduce weight, although not that much, I discarded my "male device". To me it turned out to be more of a novelty with more effort than the old fashioned way.

The route to Triacastela was dotted with small little country villages which we very much enjoyed. Once there we stopped for lunch, a not so good empanada and checked comments on internet camino blog to decide which of the two routes on which we should proceed - the Northern shorter route to Sarria or the Southern route that went through Samos where the oldest monestary in Europe existed. We chose the Northern route based primarily on comments but also it was the recommended Brierley route and it was shorter. These tired muscles were dictating to us.

Monastery

As I walked, all I could think of was how close we were getting to Santiago and how I don't feel like I have had a significant personal change or spiritual awakening. I am concerned that I will go back home unchanged from this experience. I will still have my circular thoughts and my spiritual doubts. I have had some very emotional moments and I hope that these last few days will help congeal those into something more substantial. I hope, as the nuns at the albergue (of which I cannot recall) said, that I don't find Santiago but God welcoming me there.

About 9 kilometres into the walk we said this was the first time we didn't chose the path least travelled and that the path we were on just didn't feel right to us. Then we had the brilliant idea to check our favorite book on the Camino - Bill Bennett's "The Way, My Way" and found his description of his walk to to Samos so desirable that we were convinced we had chosen the wrong path. Why didn't think of this back in Triacastela?

At this point we started asking farmers and other pilgrims where we could get a taxi to take us back to Triacastela to go the other way. They all looked at us like we were crazy. But we just knew we were on the wrong path for us and that there was a reason that we felt that way and to listen to it. After being told by the farmer and the other pilgrims that we would have to go all the way to Sarria to get a taxi, we came upon a little bar next to a highway where the hostess, despite agreeing we were "loco" called for a cab to take us back to Triacastela.

Immediately as we started this new route, even despite the first three kilometres being on and along the highway, we knew we were on the right path. We weren't sure why but knew we would find out. After we left the road, the path meandered along the river, part of which had such calm waters that it made me think of the 23rd Psalm - He leadeth me beside still waters and restoreth my soul. Such comfort. We were indeed on the right path.

Even though we arrived at the monastery (which also housed our albergue) muy cansado (very tired), we still decided to take a tour of the building given it's signficance. Unfortunately, there were no more handouts in English and the guide only spoke Spanish so in very short order we were wishing we would have stayed back and showered. We actually snuck out before the tour ended to do just that before we returned for evening vespers.

Contemplative Monk

The vespers were really very special. There was a huge pipe organ that played at the back as the monks chanted. Closing our eyes, we let the music waft over and through us. Although we could understand nothing of the words, the music rose above.

A peregrino meal at the bar across the street from the albergue with just enough time to get settled for the night and our day was over.

Lesson of the Day: Listen to your internal guide and understand that sometimes this means a do-over.

 

 

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O'Cebreiro and Beyond - Day 33 (May 16)

Our hospitalero warned us - we were not to get out of bed until the music started at 6:30. And music it was - Ave Maria - turned up so loud that it must have awoke the entire village. Oh, that's right, he was the entire village! It was actually a beautiful way to be arosed from slumber and prepare our minds and souls for the day. His breakfast prepared our bodies.

Working in Garden

Just out of town, we walked past several people working in their gardens. These were very large gardens and they didn't use any power tools - just the power of their arms and backs. The path continued along a stream with several small pastures featuring grazing cows.

Shortly out of Ruitelan, we began what was supposed to be one of the steepest climbs of the Camino into the town of O'Cebreiro. Although strenous indeed, we did not find it near as challenging as the walk to Orisson the first day of our Camino. Either we have toned our muscles or our memories of that day are greatly exaggerated.

Happiness

About halfway up the hill or mountain as the case may be, there was a sign that read "La Felicidad No es un destino es la actitud com la quese la vida" which my translator says means "Happiness is not a destination, it is the attitude in life." Such good advice.

The path continued relentlessly up on rocky ground through a forest with a rock wall lining the path. The rock walls were host to several plants and flowers crouched in it's crevices. Some daises were actually popping through what appeared to be only rock, no soil, which amazed me at their tenacity. We continued to navigate over small boulders, rocks that attempted to grab your shoe, and small pebbles that threatened to make you skid. Near the top, we heard the air being pushed aside by the wings of a raven who flew just over Fred's head and at the top we were rewarded with expansive views of the valleys below - another panoramic opportunity!

At the top, we also crossed into the province of Galicia, the last province on our journey. We now started to regularly see markers showing the distance to Santiago only we learned that these were not terribly accurate. We have noticed this before. A sign might say we have only 150 kilometres left and 10 kilometres further down the road, a sign might say 160 kilometres. Don't think we went backwards but who knows?

We reached an area with some interesting structures, Galician pallozas, which were round buildings with thatched rye roofs. They were from pre-Roman times and built to withstand the harsh winters on the mountaintop.

Galician Pallozas

We had planned to stop in O'Cebreiro to have lunch so continued on our way only to discover what we had just passed through was O'Cebreiro. So.... back we went. Although Galicia is known for it's seafood, we opted for eggs and bacon instead. We have developed an affinity for their eggs and their bacon. So much more flavor than what we get back home.

Afterward, we stopped at O'Cebreiro Iglesia which is one of the erliest surviving buildings on the Camino to not only see it but get our credencia stamped as well. Inside there was a large display of bibles from many different languages. We also learned here that it was through the efforts of a parish priest by the name of D. Elias Valina Sampedro that the Camino route is marked with the famous yellow arrows. Since Elias is our grandson's name, we thought this particularly neat.

We thought we were at the top in O'Cebreiro but that was not the case. There was still a little way to go where we were greeted by a bronze peregrino posed as though leaning into the wind. Two women who were also at the top commented on how all the depictions of peregrinos were of men, something we had not thought of before. We know that women also made this journey. Why are they not represented? Just as we were leaving here we heard first, then saw, our second raven.

Peregrino Statue

We were now on level ground that would take us to our intended stay in Fonfria. Along this section, there were several new flowers and ferns poking their new and as yet unfurled fronds up to the sky. This area will be a mass of ferns when they have finished their journey to new life.

We passed through several small villages on our way to Fonfria, all with streets extensively marked with cow dung. Although we really have not seen any children in these small villages, I wondered how children playing in these towns kept from getting sick. I guess my years of living in a city have made me forget my youth on the farm and how we played in areas that I am sure were filled with the same without any dire effects.

Shortly before Fonfria, there was a short but very steep climb. It was very hot and by now we were quite tired so decided we needed to take a break. Sat down. Had a banana and tangerine and chocolate. Got up. No more than four feet up the hill was the top which was host to a bar/restaurant. I am sure there must be a lesson here, not sure what it is though.

The last little bit of our walk, although on a path along the highway was not unpleasant. We were pleased that there were beds available in the only albergue in Fonfria. It would have been difficult to be forced to continue on. Dinner was again community style with everyone served in a beautiful round building resembling the structures we saw in O'Cebreiro. I sat next to a lady from Australia, Lois, who was a nurse so we had a lengthy discussion on the differences in health care between the U.S. and Australia.

This albergue had a double bottom bunk with a single top bunk. It was nice that Fred did not have to climb up to an upper bunk tonight. Tomorrow we head to Sarria, what is the starting point for many peregrinos as it is the least distance you can walk and still get a Compestela de Santiago. We are certain to see many new pilgrims between here and Santiago. We are extremely grateful that we were able to start in St. Jean and will be mindful that many are not afforded that luxury but are peregrinos just the same.

Lesson of the Day: Sometimes you do have to go back.

 

 

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Beautiful Valley Views - Day 32 (May 15)

Out of Villafranca, which I think was my favorite town on the Camino so far, there were three path options - easy but along the highway, moderate which required one significant climb and difficult with three significant climbs. We didn't think we were up to three mountain climbs so we chose the medium difficulty option.

Villafranca Below

We were glad decided to have the simple breakfast of toast, cereal and coffee because the climb started immediately out of the city. As we passed by the last of the houses in the city, a old woman leaned out of her window and gave us what felt like a Camino blessing.

We were immediately rewarded with our efforts as the view over the city of Villafranca was mesmerizing. I kept stopping to take pictures, as well as provide respite from the climb, of this little town nestled at the base of the mountains surrounding it. The trail led through pine and chestnut forests with birds singing all along the way.

About 10 kilometres before Ruitelan where we had planned to spend the night, we stopped for a lunch of bocadillas. It was unusual as there was playground equipment right next to the patio tables where we ate. Maybe we were supposed to work off our food after we were done eating, as if walking 24 kilometres was not enough!

New Camino Sign

The next section of the trail, although along the road, was not unpleasant as it also ran through small farms and was next to a small stream. Houses along here had primarily slate roofs. It seems like a huge undertaking finding the right size slate and then getting them on top of the house. The top of the roof line were placed pieces of slate in an upright position similar to the spines of a dinosaur - interesting!

For just the second time, we made a reservation at our albergue at the recommendation of our previous hospitalero. It is surprising that Ruitelan even makes it on the map as the town is essentially comprised of the albergue and a small bar. Even more surprising is that Sarracin, a town immediately prior to Ruitelan and merely a blip on Brierley's guide, had what appeared to be several nice albergues and restaurants. Not sure what was up with that! In Sarracin, there was one restaurant with a cow pasture just outside of it's front door. In the background was an elevated freeway spanning the valley that rivaled the elevated freeway at Coeur d'Alene.

Freeway Above

Once at Ruitelan, we hesitantly approached our albergue as unlike the newer ones we saw in Sarracin, from the outside this one looked a little sketchy. Once inside, we were warmly greeted by our hospitalero who showed us to our more than adequate room. Here we met Ben and his mother Suzanne from Boston as well as Amy from Australia. Ben had been studying abroad in Madrid and invited his mom to join him on the Camino, starting in Leon. Neat to see a parent and child doing the walk together. We also met Shamus, a nice your man from Ireland and Heidi (pronounced Haiti) from Estonia. Pia, our friend from Venezuela was also here.

Before we showered, we decide to head down to the lowly bar and get a beer while we blogged and journaled. After a couple hours, the beer turned into ice cream and coffee. Back to the albergue to clean up before our delightful family style dinner with everyone who stayed at the albergue. Dinner consisted of cream of lentil soup, salad mixta and ham and cheese spaghetti - all very hearty and good.

It seems like there are all new people on this part of journey. While it is fun to continue to meet these new peregrinos, most who started camino at locations after Leon, we miss our initial peregrino mates. Hopefully we will all meet again in Santiago.

Lesson of the Day: Easy does not make for great views.

 

 

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