From Pilgrim to Not So Accidental Tourists

Pilgrim to tourist - a very difficult transition. As a pilgrim, we were in a world unto itself. A world where we knew what we were going to do each day - walk. A world where we were in communion with the nature surrounding us. A world of community with our fellow travelers and hospitaleros who were interested in our welfare, as were we in theirs. The only decisions to be made were where we were going to stop walking for the day, what albergue we would stay at and what we were going to eat from the limited choices on the pilgrim menu. Everything else was pre-determined, even the clothes we would wear. It was simple.

Now we found ourselves in the world of the tourist. A world filled with decisions as to what we would do, where we would stay, how long we would stay there. And the choices for those decisions seemed limitless. A world that was whizzing by with us as spectators rather than participants. A world without our community of co-pilgrims. And we were not ready for that. We wanted to be back on the Camino.

We thought giving ourselves an extra 20 days as a way to assure a completed Camino was a good idea. And it probably would have been if we had gotten seriously injured or sick and had to rest for several days during our walk. As it turned out, we made it through without the need. So now, even with our days in Finesterre and Muxia and extra days in Santiago, we had nearly two weeks to fill before heading home.

Our Camino friends Jean Robert and Ayala had also found the transition difficult and although they had the same plans as we to fly out of Portugal on the 10th of June, they flew home early. When we checked on getting our flights changed, the cost to do so was more than it would cost us to simply stay. So... stay we did.

Our initial time as tourists was spent in Porto where we were fortunate to stumble upon a guesthouse, "6 Only". Mariana, the wonderful hostess, provided a bridge from the Camino world to the tourist world through her caring hospitality. As a result, we kept asking if we could stay "one more night" until we knew it was time to head to Lisbon. While in Porto we did have some nice moments touring the Douro wine region with it's beautiful terraced mountain side vineyards. And we tasted some great ports and enjoyed some authentic Portugese cuisine, including tripe, goat, suckling pig and Portos signature sandwich - a Francesinha. We also spent some time looking at the architecture of churches, bookstores, train stations, and cafes - most with beautiful azulejos tiles depicting some portion of the history of Portugal.

Lisbon was a different story. Everything there was busy and hectic. We had difficulty locating a place to stay and felt fortunate to find an apartment in the heart of the historic section of the city - Biaxa which made it convenient to get places. The unfortunate part was since it was in a historic building, it had no air conditioning which necessitated keeping the windows open at night allowing the noise from the street below to fill our ears. It was also on the fourth floor which was quite a climb after walking up and down hills during the day.

We were in Lisbon for four days and despite our desire for peace, quiet and relaxation we also wanted to see some of the famous sights. So we tried to make our touring of these sights as relaxing as possible by visiting only one sight a day and spending much of the time at each just sitting and watching people.

Our first day we visited a castle on the hilltop in Lisbon. With Fred's ankle really bothering him, we thought we would either take a taxi or get on the famous Tram 28 but before we knew it we had walked to the top of the hill. We actually did spend most of our time there just sitting on the stone benches and watching people. Again selfies were the order of the day. On the way back down, we stopped at a wine shop that provided tastings from a choice of 150 different wines and ports. A couple of delicious wines along with area cheeses but mostly we liked the 15 year Madeira.

The photographer in me found enjoyment in a visit to Mosterio (Monastery) da Jeronimos with a cloister that was awe inspiring. I was particularly pleased with a photo of a young girl who was drawing the beauty she saw in the cloister walls.

We spent another day taking a train to Sintra, a little town filled with castles. We visited two of them, a Moorish castle was really interesting as it was woven into the mountainside where archeological excavations showed the area had originally been settled by paleolithic peoples followed by Romans and ultimately Moors. The other castle was the summer home of the queen and was unique in that with it's pink, yellow and purple walls and turrets it took on the appearance of a Disneyland park.

Our most frustrating day was when we spent nearly an entire day trying to find the Alfama district, a small section of Arabic influence with narrow winding streets. This area was known for Fado, Portugal's heart-felt folk music and we were hoping to hear some. Unfortunately, we chose a day that they were not typically playing. Instead we got absolutely jam-packed streets and dance music. We will just have to find a Fado Pandora station when we return home.

As I write this, we are on our way home, very anxious to be back. We are really looking forward to "looking back" at our time on the Camino through pictures as well as re-reading our blogs and journals. We want to try to reconstruct what was at times a blur of days and places mixed together and to ultimately try to define more clearly what we learned from our experience. I hope one lesson learned is how to better relax through what is sure to be a hectic time when we return. Hopefully it will be a lesson that will carry the day.

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Returning to and Leaving Santiago

Thursday - May 28

 

It was strange to arrive in Santiago by bus instead of on foot. Even though our walk from the bus station followed the same Camino path we had walked the previous week, it felt very different, almost like we were frauds. With our packs and boots on, we stopped on the Cathedral steps where we asked someone to take our photo as we didn't do that on our initial entrance into the city and we wanted one of us from the end of our journey.

It was our plan to pick up our suitcases from storage on our way into town but once again our ability to find what we were told would be easy to find proved to be less than required to accomplish such a task. It is a good thing we never made it on the Amazing Race as we had once hoped as we would have been eliminated on the first episode! Anyway, we decided we would try to find it later.

Arrival in Santiago

Arriving just as the gift shops opened after their afternoon siesta, we thought we could get all the gifts for family and friends as well as a couple of items for us before they closed for the day. This would allow us to leave by bus for Porto at noon the next day (Friday). Given our new penchant for "cafe cortado", we bought cups to house these tasty drinks at home. Another item we had decided to purchase as a remembrance of our Camino was a customized poster. We were told it would take only a couple hours to complete but when we dropped off the information to create it, we learned it would not be ready until after 2:00 the next day. So.... with that (plus unfound suitcases and dinner arranged with Camino friends), our plans to leave the next day were changed.

 

Although we had walked some distance with Dawn, due to her pre-planned stops as well as plans for her friend Ann to join her in Sarria, she was some distance behind us. So it was fun to hear the rest of her Camino stories over dinner, once again at Le Bispo, and to meet Ann as well.

On the way to meet Dawn for dinner, I made a quick dodge into a store while Fred stood outside. So glad he did because he came face to face with Jean (of Bill and Jean from Portland). We last saw them in Leon and truly thought we would miss seeing them in Santiago so this was a very delightful surprise. We quickly arranged meeting them for breakfast the next day before they were scheduled to head out to Finesterre.

Friday - May 29

Our breakfast with Bill and Jean was a great time of sharing Camino experiences. We are quite certain we will remain in touch with these wonderful people as they live so close and our personalities really clicked.

After breakfast, I left Fred sitting at the hotel with ice on his ankle while I went in search of the rest of the gifts for people. My sisters had also given me some money to purchase something special so I was looking for that thing that would hopefully embrace the emotion of the Camino for me. By one o'clock, I had the list of gift items and where they were located so met Fred at the fountain so we could once again try to locate our suitcases. This time, we had directions from the concierge at our hotel so in no time found ourselves at the front desk of the albergue where our suitcases had been stored. We noticed a beautiful solid terra cotta sculpture of a male peregrino in a sitting pose and commented on how neat it was.

Our suitcases in hand, we now began the embarrassing walk pulling them through the streets of Santiago, definitely not feeling like peregrinos now. Back at our hotel, we realized how many dirty clothes we had acquired while in France and so now..... we decided we would stay until Sunday. This would give us the opportunity to get our clothes washed, spend a day finishing up our journaling, and more importantly to be there for the arrival of Ralph, our English friend who had prescheduled his arrival in Santiago causing him to arrive after all those he shared the way with to be gone.

With this decision made, we finished our shopping for all but the "special gift" with my sister's money. I thought I would get a carved wood peregrino but there were so many and they all looked alike. It was while looking in one more store, right next to the cathedral, that I spotted her. A solid terra cotta sculpture of a child peregrino. It totally captured the essence of the Camino for me - the childlike wonder I experienced as I took in all nature around me, the childlike vulnerability, and the childlike acceptance. I know that it will be a continual remembrance of how special the Camino was for me. Fortunately, Fred liked her as well. Unfortunately, I did not take a picture of her before she was wrapped like a mummy in bubble wrap so it will have to wait until I get home to share. She weighs about 15 pounds and I am not risking putting her in a suitcase so I will be carrying her all the way home.

Peregrino

We were ready for something different to eat for dinner tonight so found an authentic Italian place and had a really good pizza and caprese salad. A welcome change.

Saturday - May 30

Knowing that Ralph was going to be arriving in Santiago today, we made our way to a section of the walk into town that everyone essentially walks by so it would be difficult for us to miss him. Sitting there with our coffee and crosisant, only a short time later, we spotted him. He was so surprised and pleased that someone was still there for his arrival. We walked with him to the compostela office and made arrangements to get together at six for dinner.

The rest of the day until dinner, we spent journaling/blogging with a glass of wine or sangria to refresh us. We enjoyed sharing our last trip to El Bispo with Ralph. It was so great to have this time to visit with this warm-hearted Englishman.

Back in our room, we made an important FaceTime call to our beautiful grandaughter Teagan as it was her 7th birthday. A great way to end our day.

Sunday - May 31

After breakfast at our hotel, we got a taxi to take us to the bus station for our trip to Porto. It was really sad for us to leave this beautiful city that had become so special to us. I plan to be back someday soon when I hopefully have the opportunity to repeat this walk with my sisters. What an awesome experience that will be!

Arrival in Santiago Statue

I plan at least two more posts before I consider by Camino blog complete. One on the mental, spiritual and emotional impact this journey had on me. The other the practical lessons learned. Both may require a look back through and some additional processing so they will likely be delayed until our return home. Suffice it to say for the moment, this walk was the most rewarding experience I have ever had. It will be difficult to become tourists for the rest of our time here and to ultimately rejoin the real world when we return home.

 

 

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Finesterre & Muxia (May 25 - 27)

Our bus to Finesterre left at 10:00 a.m. and we arrived just and hour and a half later. Walking down to the square we were surprisingly greeted by Chris, the young guitar player. It was so fun to see him. He was camping on the westernmost beach Cabo do Roca and invited us to join him to watch the sunset.

Finesterre Lighthouse

After a quick bite to eat, our next task was to locate an albergue for the night. We found one close to the main square, got settled and then made walking to what is "officially" the end of the ancient Camino path at the lighthouse our next order of business. This is where the zero marker for the Camino is located. We had purchased a dessert pastry from the panaderia shop that was owned/managed by our albergue hospitalero so sat on the rocks there and enjoyed our tasty treat. A tradition started by the medieval pilgrim of burning the clothes from their journey, signifying a new life (and probably because they smelled so bad there was no possible way to remove the odor), is still followed by some today. So, we found not only clothes burned but phones, walking sticks and other items as well. Actually at this point in time, it seemed a little more like pollution than ritual.

Finesterre Beach Sunset

Eating dinner down by the wharf, we had another pleasant surprise when Christiane and two of the other German ladies greeted us. So happy to see them. Tom also staggered in totally exhaused, after getting lost on his third walking day from Santiago, and sat down to have something to eat before he called it a day. He did not like Finesterre and was going to continue on to Muxia the next morning rather than stay in Finesterre.

We barely made it to the beach to see the sunset which was actually quite lackluster. We saw Chris's little camp with a campfire started and debated whether to join him as the campfire was surrounded by only young people. But, being fond of the young, we ambled over. Boy where we glad we did as who walked up to us but Joanina, the young German girl with all the blisters. We learned that her blisters resolved, she felt because she had also resolved some emotional decisions, and looked truly radiant. Such a warm and wonderful girl, she seemed to have found a young man along the way. We hope he is the right person for her and that she has a wonderful life.

Longostiera Beach

Although we decided to stay another day in Finesterre so we could walk the Longostiera Beach to find some scallop shells, we decded we concurred with Tom and were not terribly fond of this little town at the end of the world. We did indeed enjoy walking the beach and did find several small scallop shells but we did not find the people friendly or the food good. We were looking forward to Muxia the next day

The next morning before heading off to Muxia, Regina, a pilgrim from Switzerland who was unable to finish her Camino due to extreme tendonitis, asked if she could draw portraits of each of us. We consented. We felt bad that she wasn't able to complete her journey and also because she seemed to be quite lonely.

We had hoped to walk to Muxia but Fred had developed severe tendonitis in his ankle on the last day of our Camino while walking into Santiago and there was not any way we would be able to walk the 29K there. We took a taxi instead and found ourselves in this wonderful but extremely blustery little village in a mere 30 minutes.

We loved Muxia. From the start, looking for the albergue, we had help when a local man walked us all the way there. The albergue was the nicest one on the whole camino with poster art depicting the Camino on the walls. Additionally, each bunk had it's own little cubby with an electrical connection and light. And the showers actually had a little bench to set things on!

Muxia Cathedral

We ran into several of our fellow peregrinos - Tom, Diane, and Deb and Bruce - so had some nice mini-visits with them.

The best part of Muxia, however were the views. A short 10 minute walk from the village center found us at the cathedral teetering on the edge next to the ocean. The wind here was incredibly strong, reminiscent of the winds in the Pyrenees, literally capable of knocking you off your feet if not careful. Also there was a massive rock sculpture with a final Camino marker in front of it.

The rocks between the cathedral and the ocean were well worn, a result of the constant pounding of the waves. This made them very easy to walk on and our explore actually brought us to a point where we were protected from the winds. We must have stayed in this spot for two to three hours just watching and taking pictures of the aqua blue waves splashing and splaying white against the rocks. Mesmerizing.

This area was also host to a "pedra de abalar" or rocking stone, a large stone that rests on a point and can be moved by a person or the wind. A short walk to hilltop and you could see from one side of Muxia to the other, water on both sides.

That evening we had the best meal we have had on the Camino at Hotel Restaurant Lolo. A peregrino meal of prawns wrapped in angel hair pasta, deep fried and drizzled in balsamic reduction sauce followed by the best paella was simple fabulous.

To say we loved Muxia would be an understatement.

Muxia Beach

 

 

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Pentecost Sunday - Day 41 (May 24)

Although our walk was over, our Camino was not and today was a really instrumental part of our journey. Since it was Pentecost Sunday, we decided we would go to mass, I must admit in part to see the botafumeria again. But it became so much more than that.

Believing the service to be at noon, we entered the church at 10:30 to see what the seating was like only to discover that there was a service that had just started. With ample seats, we sat down and enjoyed the singing and entire service. The botafumeria ceremony did take place again and although we were in a good place to witness it, capturing it was very difficult as it flew directly over our heads at an amazing speed. Botafumeria aside, it was once again the music in that large space that we most enjoyed. Enjoyed enough that we decided to stay for the following service.

Pentecost Procession

We didn't make this decision however until there were no longer any seats so we found ourselves standing near a pillar facing the front of the sanctuary. There was a woman standing in front of me and I decided I would go around her so I could lean against the pillar without blocking her view. When I turned around to say something to Fred, I discovered the woman to be Marie Josie who started the Camino with us in St. Jean but we had not seen since Leon. It was such an emotional moment for all of us. Such a special place to run into such a special fellow sojourner.

With emotions raw from the surprising encounter with Marie Josie, it was during this mass that my journey moved to a place of tranquility. This was a special service that started with a shortened version of the botafumeria followed by a procession of priests, a cardinal and a bishop and other church clery carrying the relics of St. James; all during which music was being sung from what seemed all around completely filling the area within it's walls. Closing my eyes, I felt like my soul was lifted on their notes and brought back to me all cleansed and at peace. Tranquility. I hope that I can recapture the essence of that moment again and again in the days and months ahead, especially once we return home.

Departure from Mass

The service over and our souls filled, we found our bodies to be quite hungry. On the way to a restaurant, we ran into Char and Barry. They told us about a cathedral rooftop tour that started at 4 o'clock which seemed interesting to us so decided we would join them after lunch (pasta with rich mushroom sauce and pasta with seafood sauce).

Standing atop the cathedral in the wind was actually a bit unnerving, especially when I had my camera to my eye causing me to struggle with my sense of balance. It was really an interesting tour, however, with our tour guide being very knowledgeable about the building architecture and history of the Camino. We asked how they could be certain the bones were actually those of St. James and she indicated that tomb said it was the "Son of Thunder" and his neck had been broken.

From Cathedral Rooftop

After our tour, we enjoyed a glass of wine with Barry and Char on the patio of the Parador Hotel. Char discovered a leather belt with camino shell buckle that she fell in love with and purchased. She was so pleased with her purchase, not because it was pretty, but mostly because it would serve as a memory to her of her Camino experience every time she wore it. I am hoping to also find at item that will serve as an emotional reminder of our Camino.

It was now time to consider dinner and we all went back to the Tapas bar that Jim and Marilyn introduced us to - El Bispo. We had several items, all of which were wonderful, especially the honey glazed cod. And the dessert, cheesecake with creme brulee on top was to die for.

Today felt like the perfect end to our Camino journey. Tomorrow we will take a bus to Finesterre, considered the end of the world when the world was still thought to be flat, From there we hope to walk the 29K to Muxia where the movie "They Way", which was responsible for initiating the desire in us to make this journey, ends on the rocks by the cathedral that perches above the ocean.

 

 

 

 

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Day After - Day 40 (May 23)

Today was a bit of a blur. Our minds and bodies weary from our 39 day journey, we kind of just wandered around aimlessly for much of the day, always with an eye out for peregrinos we had met along the way.

Our first agenda item was to find a new place to stay for a couple of nights. At stop at the Santiago information center provided us with a suggestion for the pensione next door to them. Luckily, they had a room for us so we were quickly settled for the next couple of days.

Hugging Statue of St. James

Having only a quick visit to the cathedral the day before, we went back today to look again and take some pictures of this cathedral with such incredible significance for the Christian pilgrim, in particular.

We had arranged the day before to meet Christine, one of the German ladies we had come to know quite well from the first part of the Camino. We enjoying visiting and having lunch with her before she had to head off to the airport. She shared a pretty funny story about her trekking poles. It seems that when she went to retrieve them from where the albergue required they be stored for the night, they were not there. So.. after walking for a day without them, she purchased another pair in the next larger town. As she was walking with those new sticks, she came upon a pilgrim who was using poles just like the ones she lost. When she inquired, the girl said she found them - at the same place Christine lost hers! It seems that she thought they were an item that a pilgrim left behind because they no longer wanted them. In the end, when she arrived in Santiago she brought them back to the hotel where Christine was staying. We are quite certain we will stay in touch with Christine as she was an important part of our Camino experience.

After lunch with Christine, we walked around checking out several of the shops, in part to find another top for me but also to find gifts for people back home. We were not going to purchase anything until we returned to Santiago after our visit to Finisterre because we didn't want anything extra to carry until we were ready to head to Porto. But we figured it would be a time saver when we returned.

Santiago Cathedral

We also found out that in addition to the regular Compostela, we could also get another Compostela that showed the number of miles we walked. So... after lunch we went back to get our mileage Compostela.

A stop at a restaurant for dinner of wonderful fish soup and beef steak turned into more than dinner when two ladies who were co-workers from London captured us in conversation as we were about to leave. Marie and Sonia had walked the Camino from two days out of Sarria. They were full of questions about walking the entire St. Frances route as although the trip from Sarria was very momentous to them and they, especially Marie, were considering coming back and starting in St. Jean. We appreciated this conversation as it confirmed our feelings from the day before when instead of being irritated with those who started at Sarria to be sad for what they missed. An hour and a half later, we headed back to our room ready for a good night's sleep.

 

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Arrival in Santiago - Day 39 (May 22)

What an emotional day! All morning we had very mixed feelings about it being what we thought was our second to the last day on the Camino. Our bodies were tired but our souls wanted to continue. We were so sad that this unbelievable experience was about to end.

My feelings of frustration with the "tourist peregrino" was replaced with feelings of sadness that they missed so much of the journey. I am not sure how to adequately describe a peregrino but generally, I think it is a person who is searching and open to the beauty of the world around them from the plants to the birds to the people who share the path with them. The more time putting your feet to the ground, the greater opportunity to see and feel that beauty.

Much of the path today ran alongside the busy highway so I opted for only the third time in nearly 40 days to listen to my music. When my playlist came to the instrumental song "Memories" by Ryan Stewart, so many images of the Camino came to life - images of mountains, flowers, people, butterflies. I set the song to repeat and let the joyful but also sad emotions coming spilling from my heart and my eyes.

My Fence Cross

We once again came upon a chain link fence where previous pilgrims had placed within the links crosses made from sticks. I added my own to this display of Christian belief. Felt good to leave a little mark of my passing behind.

Thankfully, after some time we moved away from the highway so we could once again enjoy the song of the birds. Previously, their song seemed incongruous with the sounds of the cars that had been whizzing by.

Further down the road I received a sign, if you can call it that. We stumbled upon just four dairy cows in a field all in a row. One was black and white, one tan and two were black. It made me think of my three sisters and how they want to do the Camino in a few years. I'm sure this was a message that I will be back with them. Crazy, I know, but they will understand.

Four Sisters

Our original plan was to stop at an albergue 5K outside of Santiago and then walk in the next morning all fresh. But it was earlier than we expected when we arrived at this point and we decided that we would rather arrive sweaty and spent as it seemed more akin to our journey. At this point in the path, there was a giant monument to the Camino and it's pilgrims. We were greeted there by Pia who was also going to continue on to the city.

Pilgrim Monument

Walking the last kilometres was quite emotional. Once we saw the cathedral, it was hard to contain them. To reach the cathedral, you go through a tunnel and just on the other side we heard someone say, "Welcome to Santiago" - it was Greg, the young man from Georgia. What a great way to be greeted as we came to the end of our journey.

It was important to us to go inside the cathedral and follow the traditions of the pilgrim - to hug the statue of St. James at the altar and to visit the crypt where his body lies. The other tradition is to pass by the Tree of Jesse and touch your head to the head of Maestro Mateo but that portion of the church was under renovation so we would not be able to do that.

We were not allowed to go into the cathedral with our backpacks but fortunately for us, Jim & Marilyn were there and Jim said he would watch our packs while Marilyn guided us inside. We followed the tradition of hugging the statue of St. James and went down to the crypt where we were able to kneel and pray a prayer of thanks for a safe journey.

After that it was necessary to find a place to stay so we could get showered and go back to the church for the 7:30 mass where they would also be lighting the botafumeria. We asked at one hotel close to the cathedral but it was 110 euros for the night and after paying typically only 10 - 20 euros for a bed, this seemed way too much. Luckily a woman approached us about a room she had in her pensione and in the interest of time, we took it. We were led to believe it was a private suite but learned we were actually sharing it with another room. We would find something else for the next evenings.

We got back to the church at 6:30 but already all the seats that were reserved for pilgrims were filled so we found a perch on a column toward the front and off to the side. This was when the emotions of our journey really took hold as the nun who was singing had such a beautiful voice and in the large vacancy of the cathedral walls, it reverberated and fell down all around us. Simply beautiful. Tears.

As it turned out, we were perfectly positioned to view and take pictures of the botafumeria as it swung past. It was so hard to comprehend that this ritual that was started to essentially fumigate the smells from the pilgrims of old (bota = boot + fumeria = perfume) was still taking place. Although the modern day pilgrim probably does not have the odors of the medieval pilgrim, this ritual had a way of creating a link between the souls of today and the many that passed before.

Botafumeria

Having been spirit-filled, it was now time to fill our bodies as we had not eaten since very early in the day. As we were walking to find a place, we walked past the Pilgrim office where we could get our Compostela and saw there was no line so went in to be one of the last pilgrims to get their Compostela for the day. From there we stumbled upon Jim & Marilyn who invited us to join them for tapas. We went to a couple places, the last one with quite a wait that gave us an opportunity to meet some new pilgrims - Joan and Thelma from England.

Exhausted but fulfilled by the day, we found our way back to our room and slept deeply knowing there would be no early morning wake-up as we were now peregrinos who had completed their journey to Santiag

Lesson of the Day: Some things are worth seeing through till the end.

 

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The Up and Down Day - Day 38 (May 21)

I am certain that if anyone is reading these posts, they are growing weary of doing so. We are definitely weary ourselves. Our bodies are tired of the constant pounding on the feet, the joints, the muscles. Our emotions are becoming raw. Our minds were feeble to begin with but seem to have dwindled even more. We can't remember where we were when, only where we are going. This section of the Camino is supposed to be one of rebirth - I am hopeful for that.

50K to Santiago

Today's terrain has been reflective of our mood - up and down. There have been no mountains to climb. No vistas so see. Just up and down hills sharing time between forest paths and paths along the highway. We are equally up and down. We are so ready to be done with the wear and tear on our bodies from walking each day but at the same time sad to think our journey is nearly at an end. Conflict.

Started our walk today at a momentous spot - 50 kilometres from Santiago! Deciding to wait to eat until the first available stop 6 kilometres in, we were quite hungry by the time we arrived and devoured a plate of eggs, bacon and toast.

As on previous days, we continue through farm and pasture land with cows dotting the hillsides. One cow found a way to get into a plastic-wrapped bale of hay and was enjoying the morsels he found there. We finally saw one of the unique structures for drying corn in use, many cobs of corn stacked inside. Also, once more we witnessed a field being fertilizd with manure. This time he ran out of the "rich stuff" before it overcame us.

We had a picnic lunch of chorizo sausage, banana, carrots and a chocolate croissant in a pasture area surrounded by dried up cowpies. Just like when I was a kid - picnic in the pasture!

One of the downs we experienced that was not related to the terrain, was a tour bus that picked up and deposited a medium-sized group of oriental quasi-moto pilgrims. They were really more akin to tourists with the tour guide providing snacks and lunch along the way. We are trying not to be critical because everyone has their own journey and they certainly were a happy group.

Gentle Path

With very few albergues on this stretch, we made a reservation yesterday at one in Salceda. They had only one room left and we took it. On our arrival, we discovered it was really more of a hotel room which cost 45 euros, significantly more than the 10-20 euros we were spending for our bunks in the albergues. But even more importantly, we didn't feel we were quite ready to embrace the world of hotels. We are definitely going to stay in an albergue our last night of the Camino, in a 500 bed one, to be exact! Although many people would choose to not stay in these shared rooms, for us it has been a part of the Camino culture and added to the experience.

I keep forgetting to mention what I have termed my Camino (or Peregrino) tan. It is basically a farmer's tan with white strips across the top of the hands (from the trekking pole handles) thrown in. If it had been warmer, you could have added white feet and ankles. Very fashionable, I think!

I also keep forgetting to talk about "softies" and "suckies".

We have affectionately given the name "softies" to the tips for our trekking poles. We could not have done this walk without the use of trekking poles. In addition to helping take the load off our bodies, they have saved us from falling several times. They also helped develop a walking rhythm and kept our hands from swelling. The thing is, the path keeps changing from hard surface to dirt surface. On hard surface the clicking sound of the metal tips drives us crazy but on dirt these same tips help grab the ground so.... they go on, they go off. Sometimes many times a day. Because putting the tips on muffles the clicking sound, we started calling our tips "softies".

As for "suckies", this is what we called the organic energy chews I brought. They helped keep our mouths moist when we were panting for breath as we climbed hills. Theoretically, they also gave us a little energy boost. Unfortunately, I think we needed more energy than these little guys could provide so didn't really notice any help in that regard.

At the end of tomorrow we will be just 5 Kilometres from Santiago. Not sure if we are prepared for how we will feel when we arrive. My understanding is that people had a host of emotion from disappointment to joy. I have no way of knowing what my response will be. Not sure I am ready to find out.

Lesson for the Day: Life has it's ups and downs, but just like a roller coaster, it adds to the ride.

 

 

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Only Three Days Left - Day 37 (May 20)

What?? It is only 5 in the morning and I am hearing a shower? Yesterday our roommates didn't awake until 7 and this morning nearly everyone in the large room of beds was awake and about ready to head out the door by 5:30. So that is when we gave up and joined the throng. We were out of the door at 6:30, before the sun even came up.

This change is largely an outcome, I believe, of the new pilgrim on the path. They seem to be in a hurry to get out and head to their destination to beat others to the available rooms. As it turned out, we were glad to start our day early as we had planned our longest day yet, 30 kilometres. This was so we would stand a better chance of a short day into Santiago. And we did not worry about a room as our destination, Melide, seemed to have several albergues with a number of beds.

Painted Mushrooms

This section of the Camino path was the least scenic with much of it running along the highway. Additionally, because we are no longer climbing mountains, there were no real vistas to thrill the eyes. In fact, one of the more interesting sights were some rocks that someone had painted and placed on stumps to make them look like mushrooms.

We did have a nice conversation, at least I think it was nice for the little Spanish I understood, with a farmer who had just milked his cows and was carrying the "leche" in bright blue pails into the house.

A stop for a ham and egg breakfast was not our favorite. Fred's eggs were scorched on the bottom and mine were cold. I did have some fresh orange juice that was great. This is something I am really going to miss when we return home. Most establishments here have a device for making fresh "zumo de naranja naturale". They throw whole oranges into the top and out comes the absolute best orange juice. One wall of this restaurant was decorated with what were likely left behind pilgrim hats and my beloved Tilley Hat nearly became one of them!

Wall of Lost Hats

This was probably the most uneventful and outside of accomplishing a 30K day, our most disappointing day on the Camino. We were pleased with our albergue and the ability to get our clothes washed but otherwise it was not a very exciting day. Not many pictures either. Perhaps some of this stems from the desire to be done walking and arrive in Santiago. We are preparing ourselves for that emotional day - one where we are glad to be done but sad it is over.

Lesson for the Day: Don't leave your hat behind, it might end up on someone's wall.

 

 

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A Push to the End - Day 36 (May 19)

We have come to rely on the stirrings of fellow peregrinos to serve as our alarm each day. They failed us today. I was the first to wake at 7:00 a.m., an entire hour later than usual. Still, we managed to get started on our walk by 8:15 after a quick cup of coffee.

Our walk today Continued on through farming countryside intermingled with sections through forest, a rock wall all along the way. There were some very interesting small structures that we really couldn't determine what they were. They are difficult to even describe. Perched atop a stand, they are very narrow (3-4 feet) and long (12-16 feet), the sides made with bricks containing holes, the top typically adorned with a spire at each end.

Corn Drying Huts

After some distance we made a quick stop for a cup of coffee and erroneously ordered an almond cake when we really wanted a sponge cake. When we told the barista that we really wanted a sponge cake, instead of being frustrated with us, he said if that was the only problem he had today, it would be a good day! Such a great attitude!

We had braced ourselves for what we believed would be a steep decline over rocks into the town of Portomarin but it was not nearly as bad as we had read. On the way down, we saw so much evidence of the small and poor family farm - a shepherd with his flock of sheep including some tiny lambs, a woman washing clothes in a big outdoor basin, and a man who had stopped pushing his wheelbarrow to visit with a neighbor over a rock wall. Most notable was a farmer spreading manure over his field, the odor strong enough it nearly brought tears to the eyes. Even for me who was used to this from growing up on a farm that had this same practice, it was overwhelming. A bicyclist rode by, one hand on the handlebar, one holding his nose!

Beautiful Camino Path

The approach into Portomarin was on a bridge spanning a lake. The wind heavy to our side and the water swirling below made me a bit dizzy. Reaching the other side, we walked up several steps through an arch and found a store to buy some new laces for Fred's boots, a bank for some cash and a restaurant for some nourishment.

We made the decision that we didn't not want to stay with the throngs in Portomarin so risked walking to the next town, 8 kilometres away, in hopes we would get there before our reservation expired at 5:00. We pushed ourselves and made the walk in an hour and forty-five minutes, record time for us.

The albergue, Casa Garcia, was a very nice place to stay with a great dinner. We also met another Irishman, Tom, who has walked from St. Jean 30 - 40 kilometres a day. Simply amazing - I would be dead at a pace like that!

We are challenged with how to proceed in the few days we have left on the Camino. We want to make our day before Santiago a short one, in part so we can arrive in time to attend the noon mass where they will be incorporating the botafumeria into the service and also so we can see Christine before she heads back to Germany. Unfortunately, that means the next three days will be 17-20 mile days. We will see.

Lesson of the Day: Don't count on others to be your alarm clock.

 

 

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Beyond Sarria - Day 35 (May 18)

We awoke to a delightful foggy mist over the city. We weren't sure if it meant we were shrouded in a cloud laying low in the valley and would walk through it or if it would remain with us for the day. We would find out. We were told there was nowhere to get a cup of coffee in town, but as we made our way out of town, we discovered one open on the outskirts of town and stopped for a quick cup and bite to eat.

Female Peregrino

We finally came upon the first statue of a woman peregrino in a park outside of town. The route continued along the river; with the mist providing a sense of calm and tranquility, we were convinced that our choice to go to Samos the previous day was the correct one. The path rambled through one quaint small farm village after another, each with their own little church or chapel. There were also small little huts that were placed next to the river, for what purpose we were not sure.

Among the deciduous trees towered a few columnar cypress, all seemingly placed in a row. Although there were not homesteads next to them, it seemed as if they must have been planted by someone and we found ourselves wondering by whom, when and why. A fun discovery was a meadow filled with small yellow lupines, their sunny heads peering above the grass.

Yellow Lupines

Going up a narrow rock strewn path, we thought we must be close to a road as we heard the sound of what seemed to be cars. A short time later, we were surprised to find a tractor coming at us! Surely, this was not big enough for him and us but as we pressed ourselves against the rock wall, he managed to pass us by without event.

Nearly to Sarria, there was an older man by the side of the road wrestling with a large sickle as he cut the grass in the ditch. Made me think of my grandpa. A little further on, we came upon an old woman hunched over as she pulled her oxygen tank, stopping to catch what little breath she could. Made me think of my mom.

The atmosphere of the Camino seemed to change a bit in Sarria. This is the shortest distance a peregrino can walk and obtain a Compestella in Santiago so there are many new pilgrims on the path. It is also from here that we need to remember to obtain two stamps each day as required.

We made what was hopefully our last stop at a farmacia for another tube of Voltaren, some omeprazole, and cough drops. What took me much effort and cost me $62 to get a single tube of Voltaren is obtainable over the counter in Spain. And the entire bill for everything we bought was 14 euros! We think we might make one more stop at a farmacia before we head home and load up on some of these helpful medications!!

Foggy Mist

We did not want to stay in Sarria, instead wanted to start to hit places that were in-between the Brierely recommended stop points. While we respect that many people can only walk this last part of the Camino, after 35 days of walking, we are tired and feel a bit out of place with these new peregrinos who have the enthusiasm we had at the start. So we continued on for another four kilometres to stay at Barbadelo. The path between Sarria and Barbadelo wandered through a old forest where fallen soldiers showed their unique burl roots.

Foggy Mist Path

Arriving at our chosen albergue at just 2:00, this was a short day for us but we were ready for a catch-up day of laundry and blogging/journaling. We got settled in and sat in the sun on their deck drinking wine, eating olives and enjoying the afternoon. Dinner there was one of the best peregrino meals we have had. I finally had chicken breast instead of a leg and thigh! Plus the dessert was heavenly.

After dinner, we saw Heidi sitting across the room and motioned for her to join us. We had such a delightful conversation with this beautiful young woman from Estonia, learning a bit about her country.

When we got back to our room, the six other peregrinos with home we shared this space, were already in bed. So we decided it would be good to join them in an early night's sleep. We should be ready for the next day!

Lesson for the Day: Tolerance.

 

 

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Change of Plans - Day 34 (May 17)

It seems that as we continue on our pilgrimage, I get further and further behind on my posts. Days seem to blur together. The constant crunch, crunch, crunch of footsteps seem to have that effect on me. I can't remember what towns I have gone through. I can't remember what I saw, only that it was wonderful. If I didn't have my pictures to refer back to, I would remember only vague generalities with snippets of specifics. Sometimes I think that is what the pilgrimage should be. Yet, I want to remember so much and my pictures help provide that for me. So... pictures I continue to take.

After a quick breakfast in our albergue, Albergue Reboleira, we headed out in anticipation of what we would see today. Our immediate destination was Triacastela with a decision to make on two alternate paths once we arrived there.

Clouded Valley

Our morning was met with the most beautiful view - a valley filled with a blanket of white clouds. We hoped that we would stay above it, rather than descend into it. Along the road there was a farmer who headed out to a pasture, beer bottle in hand, to a cow in obvious need of milking. A calf was laying silently right next to our path. As I imagined, the mother had abandoned her calf and the farmer was doing what any good farmer would, acting as surrogate as best he could.

Feeding Calf

The downhill walk was much easier than we were led to believe it would be, really more of a gentle decline. We stopped at one of the nicest restaurants we have seen along the way for a cup of coffee. Actually, it was more of a stop for a restroom break with a great cup of coffee thrown in. So far, most of the time, there are bar/restaurants spaced frequently enough that we have not had to resort to the "going back to nature" approach. In fact to reduce weight, although not that much, I discarded my "male device". To me it turned out to be more of a novelty with more effort than the old fashioned way.

The route to Triacastela was dotted with small little country villages which we very much enjoyed. Once there we stopped for lunch, a not so good empanada and checked comments on internet camino blog to decide which of the two routes on which we should proceed - the Northern shorter route to Sarria or the Southern route that went through Samos where the oldest monestary in Europe existed. We chose the Northern route based primarily on comments but also it was the recommended Brierley route and it was shorter. These tired muscles were dictating to us.

Monastery

As I walked, all I could think of was how close we were getting to Santiago and how I don't feel like I have had a significant personal change or spiritual awakening. I am concerned that I will go back home unchanged from this experience. I will still have my circular thoughts and my spiritual doubts. I have had some very emotional moments and I hope that these last few days will help congeal those into something more substantial. I hope, as the nuns at the albergue (of which I cannot recall) said, that I don't find Santiago but God welcoming me there.

About 9 kilometres into the walk we said this was the first time we didn't chose the path least travelled and that the path we were on just didn't feel right to us. Then we had the brilliant idea to check our favorite book on the Camino - Bill Bennett's "The Way, My Way" and found his description of his walk to to Samos so desirable that we were convinced we had chosen the wrong path. Why didn't think of this back in Triacastela?

At this point we started asking farmers and other pilgrims where we could get a taxi to take us back to Triacastela to go the other way. They all looked at us like we were crazy. But we just knew we were on the wrong path for us and that there was a reason that we felt that way and to listen to it. After being told by the farmer and the other pilgrims that we would have to go all the way to Sarria to get a taxi, we came upon a little bar next to a highway where the hostess, despite agreeing we were "loco" called for a cab to take us back to Triacastela.

Immediately as we started this new route, even despite the first three kilometres being on and along the highway, we knew we were on the right path. We weren't sure why but knew we would find out. After we left the road, the path meandered along the river, part of which had such calm waters that it made me think of the 23rd Psalm - He leadeth me beside still waters and restoreth my soul. Such comfort. We were indeed on the right path.

Even though we arrived at the monastery (which also housed our albergue) muy cansado (very tired), we still decided to take a tour of the building given it's signficance. Unfortunately, there were no more handouts in English and the guide only spoke Spanish so in very short order we were wishing we would have stayed back and showered. We actually snuck out before the tour ended to do just that before we returned for evening vespers.

Contemplative Monk

The vespers were really very special. There was a huge pipe organ that played at the back as the monks chanted. Closing our eyes, we let the music waft over and through us. Although we could understand nothing of the words, the music rose above.

A peregrino meal at the bar across the street from the albergue with just enough time to get settled for the night and our day was over.

Lesson of the Day: Listen to your internal guide and understand that sometimes this means a do-over.

 

 

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O'Cebreiro and Beyond - Day 33 (May 16)

Our hospitalero warned us - we were not to get out of bed until the music started at 6:30. And music it was - Ave Maria - turned up so loud that it must have awoke the entire village. Oh, that's right, he was the entire village! It was actually a beautiful way to be arosed from slumber and prepare our minds and souls for the day. His breakfast prepared our bodies.

Working in Garden

Just out of town, we walked past several people working in their gardens. These were very large gardens and they didn't use any power tools - just the power of their arms and backs. The path continued along a stream with several small pastures featuring grazing cows.

Shortly out of Ruitelan, we began what was supposed to be one of the steepest climbs of the Camino into the town of O'Cebreiro. Although strenous indeed, we did not find it near as challenging as the walk to Orisson the first day of our Camino. Either we have toned our muscles or our memories of that day are greatly exaggerated.

Happiness

About halfway up the hill or mountain as the case may be, there was a sign that read "La Felicidad No es un destino es la actitud com la quese la vida" which my translator says means "Happiness is not a destination, it is the attitude in life." Such good advice.

The path continued relentlessly up on rocky ground through a forest with a rock wall lining the path. The rock walls were host to several plants and flowers crouched in it's crevices. Some daises were actually popping through what appeared to be only rock, no soil, which amazed me at their tenacity. We continued to navigate over small boulders, rocks that attempted to grab your shoe, and small pebbles that threatened to make you skid. Near the top, we heard the air being pushed aside by the wings of a raven who flew just over Fred's head and at the top we were rewarded with expansive views of the valleys below - another panoramic opportunity!

At the top, we also crossed into the province of Galicia, the last province on our journey. We now started to regularly see markers showing the distance to Santiago only we learned that these were not terribly accurate. We have noticed this before. A sign might say we have only 150 kilometres left and 10 kilometres further down the road, a sign might say 160 kilometres. Don't think we went backwards but who knows?

We reached an area with some interesting structures, Galician pallozas, which were round buildings with thatched rye roofs. They were from pre-Roman times and built to withstand the harsh winters on the mountaintop.

Galician Pallozas

We had planned to stop in O'Cebreiro to have lunch so continued on our way only to discover what we had just passed through was O'Cebreiro. So.... back we went. Although Galicia is known for it's seafood, we opted for eggs and bacon instead. We have developed an affinity for their eggs and their bacon. So much more flavor than what we get back home.

Afterward, we stopped at O'Cebreiro Iglesia which is one of the erliest surviving buildings on the Camino to not only see it but get our credencia stamped as well. Inside there was a large display of bibles from many different languages. We also learned here that it was through the efforts of a parish priest by the name of D. Elias Valina Sampedro that the Camino route is marked with the famous yellow arrows. Since Elias is our grandson's name, we thought this particularly neat.

We thought we were at the top in O'Cebreiro but that was not the case. There was still a little way to go where we were greeted by a bronze peregrino posed as though leaning into the wind. Two women who were also at the top commented on how all the depictions of peregrinos were of men, something we had not thought of before. We know that women also made this journey. Why are they not represented? Just as we were leaving here we heard first, then saw, our second raven.

Peregrino Statue

We were now on level ground that would take us to our intended stay in Fonfria. Along this section, there were several new flowers and ferns poking their new and as yet unfurled fronds up to the sky. This area will be a mass of ferns when they have finished their journey to new life.

We passed through several small villages on our way to Fonfria, all with streets extensively marked with cow dung. Although we really have not seen any children in these small villages, I wondered how children playing in these towns kept from getting sick. I guess my years of living in a city have made me forget my youth on the farm and how we played in areas that I am sure were filled with the same without any dire effects.

Shortly before Fonfria, there was a short but very steep climb. It was very hot and by now we were quite tired so decided we needed to take a break. Sat down. Had a banana and tangerine and chocolate. Got up. No more than four feet up the hill was the top which was host to a bar/restaurant. I am sure there must be a lesson here, not sure what it is though.

The last little bit of our walk, although on a path along the highway was not unpleasant. We were pleased that there were beds available in the only albergue in Fonfria. It would have been difficult to be forced to continue on. Dinner was again community style with everyone served in a beautiful round building resembling the structures we saw in O'Cebreiro. I sat next to a lady from Australia, Lois, who was a nurse so we had a lengthy discussion on the differences in health care between the U.S. and Australia.

This albergue had a double bottom bunk with a single top bunk. It was nice that Fred did not have to climb up to an upper bunk tonight. Tomorrow we head to Sarria, what is the starting point for many peregrinos as it is the least distance you can walk and still get a Compestela de Santiago. We are certain to see many new pilgrims between here and Santiago. We are extremely grateful that we were able to start in St. Jean and will be mindful that many are not afforded that luxury but are peregrinos just the same.

Lesson of the Day: Sometimes you do have to go back.

 

 

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Beautiful Valley Views - Day 32 (May 15)

Out of Villafranca, which I think was my favorite town on the Camino so far, there were three path options - easy but along the highway, moderate which required one significant climb and difficult with three significant climbs. We didn't think we were up to three mountain climbs so we chose the medium difficulty option.

Villafranca Below

We were glad decided to have the simple breakfast of toast, cereal and coffee because the climb started immediately out of the city. As we passed by the last of the houses in the city, a old woman leaned out of her window and gave us what felt like a Camino blessing.

We were immediately rewarded with our efforts as the view over the city of Villafranca was mesmerizing. I kept stopping to take pictures, as well as provide respite from the climb, of this little town nestled at the base of the mountains surrounding it. The trail led through pine and chestnut forests with birds singing all along the way.

About 10 kilometres before Ruitelan where we had planned to spend the night, we stopped for a lunch of bocadillas. It was unusual as there was playground equipment right next to the patio tables where we ate. Maybe we were supposed to work off our food after we were done eating, as if walking 24 kilometres was not enough!

New Camino Sign

The next section of the trail, although along the road, was not unpleasant as it also ran through small farms and was next to a small stream. Houses along here had primarily slate roofs. It seems like a huge undertaking finding the right size slate and then getting them on top of the house. The top of the roof line were placed pieces of slate in an upright position similar to the spines of a dinosaur - interesting!

For just the second time, we made a reservation at our albergue at the recommendation of our previous hospitalero. It is surprising that Ruitelan even makes it on the map as the town is essentially comprised of the albergue and a small bar. Even more surprising is that Sarracin, a town immediately prior to Ruitelan and merely a blip on Brierley's guide, had what appeared to be several nice albergues and restaurants. Not sure what was up with that! In Sarracin, there was one restaurant with a cow pasture just outside of it's front door. In the background was an elevated freeway spanning the valley that rivaled the elevated freeway at Coeur d'Alene.

Freeway Above

Once at Ruitelan, we hesitantly approached our albergue as unlike the newer ones we saw in Sarracin, from the outside this one looked a little sketchy. Once inside, we were warmly greeted by our hospitalero who showed us to our more than adequate room. Here we met Ben and his mother Suzanne from Boston as well as Amy from Australia. Ben had been studying abroad in Madrid and invited his mom to join him on the Camino, starting in Leon. Neat to see a parent and child doing the walk together. We also met Shamus, a nice your man from Ireland and Heidi (pronounced Haiti) from Estonia. Pia, our friend from Venezuela was also here.

Before we showered, we decide to head down to the lowly bar and get a beer while we blogged and journaled. After a couple hours, the beer turned into ice cream and coffee. Back to the albergue to clean up before our delightful family style dinner with everyone who stayed at the albergue. Dinner consisted of cream of lentil soup, salad mixta and ham and cheese spaghetti - all very hearty and good.

It seems like there are all new people on this part of journey. While it is fun to continue to meet these new peregrinos, most who started camino at locations after Leon, we miss our initial peregrino mates. Hopefully we will all meet again in Santiago.

Lesson of the Day: Easy does not make for great views.

 

 

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