We have come to rely on the stirrings of fellow peregrinos to serve as our alarm each day. They failed us today. I was the first to wake at 7:00 a.m., an entire hour later than usual. Still, we managed to get started on our walk by 8:15 after a quick cup of coffee.
Our walk today Continued on through farming countryside intermingled with sections through forest, a rock wall all along the way. There were some very interesting small structures that we really couldn't determine what they were. They are difficult to even describe. Perched atop a stand, they are very narrow (3-4 feet) and long (12-16 feet), the sides made with bricks containing holes, the top typically adorned with a spire at each end.
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| Corn Drying Huts |
After some distance we made a quick stop for a cup of coffee and erroneously ordered an almond cake when we really wanted a sponge cake. When we told the barista that we really wanted a sponge cake, instead of being frustrated with us, he said if that was the only problem he had today, it would be a good day! Such a great attitude!
We had braced ourselves for what we believed would be a steep decline over rocks into the town of Portomarin but it was not nearly as bad as we had read. On the way down, we saw so much evidence of the small and poor family farm - a shepherd with his flock of sheep including some tiny lambs, a woman washing clothes in a big outdoor basin, and a man who had stopped pushing his wheelbarrow to visit with a neighbor over a rock wall. Most notable was a farmer spreading manure over his field, the odor strong enough it nearly brought tears to the eyes. Even for me who was used to this from growing up on a farm that had this same practice, it was overwhelming. A bicyclist rode by, one hand on the handlebar, one holding his nose!
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| Beautiful Camino Path |
The approach into Portomarin was on a bridge spanning a lake. The wind heavy to our side and the water swirling below made me a bit dizzy. Reaching the other side, we walked up several steps through an arch and found a store to buy some new laces for Fred's boots, a bank for some cash and a restaurant for some nourishment.
We made the decision that we didn't not want to stay with the throngs in Portomarin so risked walking to the next town, 8 kilometres away, in hopes we would get there before our reservation expired at 5:00. We pushed ourselves and made the walk in an hour and forty-five minutes, record time for us.
The albergue, Casa Garcia, was a very nice place to stay with a great dinner. We also met another Irishman, Tom, who has walked from St. Jean 30 - 40 kilometres a day. Simply amazing - I would be dead at a pace like that!
We are challenged with how to proceed in the few days we have left on the Camino. We want to make our day before Santiago a short one, in part so we can arrive in time to attend the noon mass where they will be incorporating the botafumeria into the service and also so we can see Christine before she heads back to Germany. Unfortunately, that means the next three days will be 17-20 mile days. We will see.
Lesson of the Day: Don't count on others to be your alarm clock.
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