Our hospitalero warned us - we were not to get out of bed until the music started at 6:30. And music it was - Ave Maria - turned up so loud that it must have awoke the entire village. Oh, that's right, he was the entire village! It was actually a beautiful way to be arosed from slumber and prepare our minds and souls for the day. His breakfast prepared our bodies.
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| Working in Garden |
Just out of town, we walked past several people working in their gardens. These were very large gardens and they didn't use any power tools - just the power of their arms and backs. The path continued along a stream with several small pastures featuring grazing cows.
Shortly out of Ruitelan, we began what was supposed to be one of the steepest climbs of the Camino into the town of O'Cebreiro. Although strenous indeed, we did not find it near as challenging as the walk to Orisson the first day of our Camino. Either we have toned our muscles or our memories of that day are greatly exaggerated.
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| Happiness |
About halfway up the hill or mountain as the case may be, there was a sign that read "La Felicidad No es un destino es la actitud com la quese la vida" which my translator says means "Happiness is not a destination, it is the attitude in life." Such good advice.
The path continued relentlessly up on rocky ground through a forest with a rock wall lining the path. The rock walls were host to several plants and flowers crouched in it's crevices. Some daises were actually popping through what appeared to be only rock, no soil, which amazed me at their tenacity. We continued to navigate over small boulders, rocks that attempted to grab your shoe, and small pebbles that threatened to make you skid. Near the top, we heard the air being pushed aside by the wings of a raven who flew just over Fred's head and at the top we were rewarded with expansive views of the valleys below - another panoramic opportunity!
At the top, we also crossed into the province of Galicia, the last province on our journey. We now started to regularly see markers showing the distance to Santiago only we learned that these were not terribly accurate. We have noticed this before. A sign might say we have only 150 kilometres left and 10 kilometres further down the road, a sign might say 160 kilometres. Don't think we went backwards but who knows?
We reached an area with some interesting structures, Galician pallozas, which were round buildings with thatched rye roofs. They were from pre-Roman times and built to withstand the harsh winters on the mountaintop.
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| Galician Pallozas |
We had planned to stop in O'Cebreiro to have lunch so continued on our way only to discover what we had just passed through was O'Cebreiro. So.... back we went. Although Galicia is known for it's seafood, we opted for eggs and bacon instead. We have developed an affinity for their eggs and their bacon. So much more flavor than what we get back home.
Afterward, we stopped at O'Cebreiro Iglesia which is one of the erliest surviving buildings on the Camino to not only see it but get our credencia stamped as well. Inside there was a large display of bibles from many different languages. We also learned here that it was through the efforts of a parish priest by the name of D. Elias Valina Sampedro that the Camino route is marked with the famous yellow arrows. Since Elias is our grandson's name, we thought this particularly neat.
We thought we were at the top in O'Cebreiro but that was not the case. There was still a little way to go where we were greeted by a bronze peregrino posed as though leaning into the wind. Two women who were also at the top commented on how all the depictions of peregrinos were of men, something we had not thought of before. We know that women also made this journey. Why are they not represented? Just as we were leaving here we heard first, then saw, our second raven.
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| Peregrino Statue |
We were now on level ground that would take us to our intended stay in Fonfria. Along this section, there were several new flowers and ferns poking their new and as yet unfurled fronds up to the sky. This area will be a mass of ferns when they have finished their journey to new life.
We passed through several small villages on our way to Fonfria, all with streets extensively marked with cow dung. Although we really have not seen any children in these small villages, I wondered how children playing in these towns kept from getting sick. I guess my years of living in a city have made me forget my youth on the farm and how we played in areas that I am sure were filled with the same without any dire effects.
Shortly before Fonfria, there was a short but very steep climb. It was very hot and by now we were quite tired so decided we needed to take a break. Sat down. Had a banana and tangerine and chocolate. Got up. No more than four feet up the hill was the top which was host to a bar/restaurant. I am sure there must be a lesson here, not sure what it is though.
The last little bit of our walk, although on a path along the highway was not unpleasant. We were pleased that there were beds available in the only albergue in Fonfria. It would have been difficult to be forced to continue on. Dinner was again community style with everyone served in a beautiful round building resembling the structures we saw in O'Cebreiro. I sat next to a lady from Australia, Lois, who was a nurse so we had a lengthy discussion on the differences in health care between the U.S. and Australia.
This albergue had a double bottom bunk with a single top bunk. It was nice that Fred did not have to climb up to an upper bunk tonight. Tomorrow we head to Sarria, what is the starting point for many peregrinos as it is the least distance you can walk and still get a Compestela de Santiago. We are certain to see many new pilgrims between here and Santiago. We are extremely grateful that we were able to start in St. Jean and will be mindful that many are not afforded that luxury but are peregrinos just the same.
Lesson of the Day: Sometimes you do have to go back.
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