The Iron Cross - Day 29 (May 12)

We decided it would still be best to send a portion of my bag ahead again today so dropped that off and then headed out of town. Selena and Christian were with us and a short time later we questioned whether we were on the right path as Fred heard people talking far off to the right of us. So Christian trekked across field to check it out. Indeed we had for the first time taken a wrong turn. A trek across the field ourselves and we were back where we should have been.

Path to Iron Cross

The path ahead was up and down shale hills, making us look down to assure we didn't trip. But the views all around us when we looked up were breathtaking. The path was lined with white broom and the hillsides were covered with all shades of heather. The hills were alive, so to speak. There were also a couple of fountain pools that had been placed there by the villages we passed by.

We continue to see butterflies virtually everyday except for the days of rain and wind. Today was no exception and it was more of the small blue butterflies that we have seen previously.

Reaching Foncebadon, we were ready for a short break and found a little restaurant to purchase a coffee. They had a very tempting apple tart begging us to try it so purchased one to share. It was so good, we purchased a second one. The restaurant had painted the path of the Camino Frances on the wall and it was so cool to see how far we had come.

One thing we are noticing as we get closer to Santiago is how many little towns are undergoing rejuvenation, we believe in response to the growth of the Camino. And rather than new buildings, it appears that they are refurbishing the existing stone structures so the town retains its authentic character.

Just outside of Foncebadon we came upon cows grazing in a pasture, the heather-covered mountains in the distance. Of particular interest was the unique water trough - an old porcelain bathtub!

Fred at Iron Cross

It was now time to lighten our load, literally and figuratively. We had reached the Iron Cross. The approach to this monument which has Roman origins was beautifully lined with heather. It really felt like a sacred time. Most significantly, Fred had carried rocks from his father's gravesite, as well as those of both his brothers.

When we arrived there were other people there taking selfies at the base of the Iron Cross so we waited until this non-sacred activity stopped and then made the climb to the base to deposit our stones. I paused to take a picture of the stones sitting there at the base and then we continued on our way.

Our Rocks

The Iron Cross sat at the top of a hill so now we were briefly on our way down again. At this point, I finally figured out how to use my panoramic setting on my camera to create a beautiful panoramic picture of the countryside. How I wish I had used this on the Pyrenees as a single picture is incapable of capturing the beauty of that part of the journey. Actually pictures are not able to come close to the beauty our eyes see.

We had one more descent, this time a very steep one into Acebo where we had decided to stay. A gentleman seated along the path gave us a flyer encouraging us to try his albergue. Normally we are put off by such activity on the Camino but this time since it was located at the outer edge of town with a perfect view of the sunset, we caved. It was definitely the most posh albergue we have stayed at but it still somehow managed to give a sense of catering to the peregrino and not a tourist.

We sat on their deck drinking wine, journaling/blogging and meeting some new peregrinos. Especially enjoyed meeting Pia from Ecuador and her travel companion as well as Avril from Ireland. I had a particularly nice visit with Avril. The sunset was worth waiting for - great end to a beautiful and emotional day.

Lesson of the Day: Carrying heartaches and struggles are much heavier than rocks.

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Tea with the Padre - Day 28 (May 11)

Today we finally left early for once - actually as the sun was rising! It really is pretty neat to leave before the town has awoken.

Meson El Llar

Instead of eating breakfast right away, we decided we would stop at the first village, only 3 kilometres away. Boy, were we glad we did. The stop at Meson El Llar was so very memorable. Not only was the food spectacular, the best we have had yet, but the lady preparing the food was so full of life and vitality. She made the most amazing juice drink with carrots, lettuce, apple, orange juice, ginger and fennel. The whole time she made the drink, with arms flying she told us about the freshness of all the ingredients and how good it was for you. And the vegetarian empanada was exceptional as well.

A short time later we saw a couple that we had met earlier but didn't remember where, when or what their names were. This is not an uncommon happening on the camino. You meet so many people in a day and just as the days and places meld together, so do the people you meet. Anyway, we re-introduced ourselves (Jose and Bailey from Marin, CA) and walked with them for some distance. A very nice visit with some very nice people.

This part of Spain has made old rock walls telling tales of past lives that existed here. There is oftentimes new surrounding them but the old is still there acting as silent voices of their former existence.

Today's walk was on a path along a highway but it wasn't very busy so wasn't unpleasant at all. There was a gentle climb in sunny and hot weather. Many pilgrims expressed discomfort with the heat but we are really quite used to it so it didn't really bother us much. As we walked, there were several new flowers to discover. The most exciting was a wild red peony, at least I assume it was wild as it was not in an area where there were or had been homes.

I really liked having some variation to the terrain as it seemed to be helping my ankle. I also deviced a kind of splint using two heel pads on each side of my ankle which also seemed to help. That along with ibuprofen and Voltaren. Anti-inflammatories of all kinds are a staple of the camino, keeping painful joints, tendons and muscles from sabotaging the journey.

Crosses in Fence

Shortly before we arrived at our destination, the climb became a little more steep and rocky. But there was a small meadow where there were some white horses grazing making for a beautiful scene. A fence along this area was host of many ribbon and cloth wrapped crosses. I really wonder how these traditions get started - who and why did someone tie the first cross to the fence.

Our destination for the day was Rabanal and we chose to stay at the Albergue Guacelmo where there were two hospitaleros - Ann and Ron. When we arrived and they saw my JacoTrans sticker, they questioned us. It seems that they do not accept pilgrims who do not carry their own backpacks as they feel forwarding it each day turns a pilgrim into a tourist. When I explained that we simply sent a portion of my contents ahead at the recommendation of the physical therapist, along with seeing my swollen ankle, they said it was okay. In fact, they brought me an ice pack for my ankle and when we brought our clothes down to hand wash, Ann said she would wash them in the albergue washing machine so I didn't have to stand and wash them by hand.

We really liked this albergue as gardens near the entrance as well as a large outer yard provided a peacefulness and tranquility that we had not experienced previously. By the time we were done with our showers and such, it was time for tea which was held in their outer yard. Served with the tea was cookies and a delicious chocolate torte made by Ron and decorated with the camino cross. The few pilgrims that attended were joined by the hospitaleros as well as two of the monks from the church and monastery that adjoined the albergue. One of the hospitaleros, Daisy, was a nurse and she worked on my ankle, stretching out the tendons that were the culprits. I thought I was going to come out of my skin it hurt so bad. Hopefully, it was what I needed.

During the tea, the priest asked if I would consider reading the scripture in English during the evening vespers. I agreed. I feel like I am being singled out and wonder why. There was only a brief time between tea and vespers so we made a quick tour of the one street in town and enjoyed a glass of wine with Mel from Australia. We also went to the monastery gift shop where we got our credencias stamped and I purchased a necklace with the camino cross on it.

The vespers were really special as they were all done in Gregorian chanting. Daisy also sang with the priests, her voice lilting over the entire church like an angel. They provided translation for the Latin in English so we were thankfully able to follow along. In addition to my reading of the scripture in English, there were also other pilgrims that did the reading in Spanish, German and French. One of the monks provided a very very short message essentially saying that when fellow pilgrims wish us "Buen Camino" they are wishing us a good walk but we need to remember that in addition to our physical walk, there is also a spiritual walk going on inside. Such a great service and message.

Church in Rabanal

By this time we were more than hungry so we went to the recommended place for our peregrino dinner. Although most of our pilgrim friends were there eating, we chose instead to join Ann, the hospitalero from our albergue who wished our clothes. Ann was from England and had walked the camino two year previous. She provided such encouragement for the journey ahead as well as insight on the camino experience itself. We thoroughly enjoyed her company.

After dinner we went back to the church for the pilgrim blessing. Today has been another emotional day for me. I am wondering if my previous thoughtless days were preparing me to fill it with more spiritual thoughts. Tomorrow will be yet another emotional day when we arrive at the Iron Cross and we deposit the stones we have carried since the start of our journey.

Lesson of the Day: People are unbelievably kind.

 

 

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Astorga Bound - Day 27 (May 10)

Our walk out of Orbigo, again along the highway, was pretty uneventful. About the only interesting thing was a line of plastic bottles covering plants that had been planted along the canal. The skies were a welcome blue and vapor trails from planes flying overhead were present.

Farmer Checking Irrigation

This portion remained farmland, this time there was the addition of hop fields. I saw a farmer working on his irrigation out of the antique concrete canals and took this opportunity to try to ask him how the water gets out to the field. Once again my poor Spanish skills had me at a significant disadvantage but I believe he said through words and gestures that there were some kind of pipes that brought the water out through the field. I couldn't see any pipes and perhaps there really weren't any but at least I attempted to learn something about their farming practices.

One wheat field just before the town of Santibanez de Valdeiglesia was competing with a beautiful intruder - poppies. Their red heads peering above the wheat, like red stop lights, created a magical scene.

Just outside of that same town, we came upon a pen of cows. I know, I seem to be obsessed with cows but they really are gentle creatures and being a farm girl, I appreciate that about them. Anyway, these particular ones let me scratch their necks, a rewarding time for them and me. Just past the adults were small individual covered pens, each with a baby calf in them. I didn't realize until later that these were likely going to be someone's veal dinner. Made me sad.

Peregrino Carving

From there we entered into a welcome 8 kilometre stretch of dirt path through scrub pines. It was nice to once again be on a path that had some ups and downs instead of being completely flat. About halfway down the path, there was a cross shrine with several unique carvings of pilgrims. I really wondered who created them - one looked like something my nephew, Justin, might have created at one time.

We have met many unique hospitaleros along the camino but today we met someone who has to be the most unique of all. He lived on a bed in the middle of nowhere and had a stand set up with all kinds of refreshments. Payment was by donation only. His comment was that he had a wonderful life - he was FREE!

Just before the descent into Astorga, was a large cross and a man playing a guitar welcoming peregrinos to the city below. There was also a map delineating all the different mountain peaks and cities that were ahead of us, including the mountain that held the Iron Cross where we will deposit the stones we have carried with us since our journey began.

Cross Above Astorga

We had once again sent some of the contents of our backpacks forward, this time to the first albergue as you entered town. There was another albergue at the other end of town that we thought we would try to stay at but after walking some distance to find it, we decided to go back to the original one. We were really glad to be back in the albergues again as they really seem more the culture of the camino than staying in an individual room.

We went in search of another small bag so Fred could also send some of his contents forward and found one at the only store that was open due to it being a Sunday.

Everyone gathered again for dinner, another great time sharing stories of our day and our lives. Got back to our albergue just in time for lights out at 10:00. The morning will come quickly.

Lesson for the Day: If we aren't careful, our possessions can hold us captive.

 

 

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Vulnerable - Day 26 (May 9)

We ended yesterday on pavement and we started today on the same, for another 5.8 kilometres! The only thing that broke up the monotony was a pasture occupied by some handsome cows (not sure what kind but they were handsome). Actually, the boys and girls were each in their own pasture, quite different from the arrangements in our albergues!

The road was also bordered by a drainage ditch that was home to a multitude of frogs creating the most amazing symphony of sound. There were soprano chirps, alto barks and the occasional bass croak. I never realized that frogs could create such a variety of tunes. It was really quite pleasant. The only thing that stopped their chorus was to step too close to their home.

Most of the fields in this area were smaller and we saw many different makes of tractors as well as farmers checking their fields. I really wondered how they actually got water from the old concrete canals that ran along the fields as there are not any pipes or sprinkler heads that we can see.

We stopped in Villavante for a quick bite to eat, to rest my ankle and to apply some ice to it. There were three men sitting in the shade of what I believe was a bus station just visiting with one another. It seems like older people here know how to relax and just enjoy each other and the world around them.

Orbigo Water Tower

As we headed out of town, we walked over a train crossing. Just as we were about down the other side, we heard a train whistle so climbed back up to try to see it go under us and for me to take a picture. After waiting and listening, we decided it was not close to headed back down. Just at the bottom, we heard the whistle again so... up we went a second time. Nothing. Down we go for the third time and I am sure I hear it again but Fred said I was imagining and we didn't want to wait there all day. So we continue on our way to have the train go by just moments later.

The entrance into the town of Hospital de Orbigo, our destination for the day, was quite picturesque with a grove of trees lining each side of the road and a very distinct water tower standing tall in the distance between them. Of course as is the case with everything tall, there were stork nests. Definitely worth a couple of pictures.

A bit further into the town, there was what is undeniably the neatest bridge welcoming us into the city. It is all rock with 19 arches spanning it's length. It was supposedly the site of a month long successful defense of the by a knight who was defending his honor. All that over a lady!!

Orbigo Bridge

We were very happy to be staying back in the albergue and the one we chose for the night was quite unique. We were welcomed by Gabriela from Hungary who offered us a cold glass of water. There was an open courtyard in the entry and that was where the showers and bathrooms were. It created the feel of a garden. In addition, they had a washing machine and clotheslines where we could once again get our clothes clean and even dry this time as it was very hot out.

We once again had dinner with what has now become our nightly dinner group and got back in time for a pilgrim meeting and blessing by the priest. This was probably the most touching moment I have had on this journey. When we entered the room, despite other places to sit, the priest invited us to sit by him. The pilgrims who had chosen to be there, shared why they had decided to do the camino and how their journey had been going thus far. There were so many unique stories shared after which the priest spoke and gave us a pilgrim's blessing.

Albergue Courtyard Shower

All during this time the priest kept patting or touching my hand, which was not irritating but very comforting. Like Christ was working through him. Afterward he told us that God loved us more than him because we were struggling. I can't help but wonder if the long quiet time on the meseta was a way to wipe the slate clean and the physical challenges of my cold and ankle were making my spirit vulnerable. I think that is some of the magic of the camino - to quiet the soul and make it open to God and what he might have planned for you.

Lesson of the Day: Vulnerablility can be a good thing.

 

 

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Lovely in the Middle - Day 25 (May 8)

Our day started with a trip to the albergue to deposit my day pack with my off-loaded backpack items for delivery to our next albergue in Villar de Mazarife. This was followed with Fred making a return trip to the albergue to pick up my bastones (trekking poles) as I had left them behind. Always so fun to repeat our steps, like we don't take enough anyway.

Pharmacy in Leon

From there we made what has now become a daily stop at the pharmacy. The pharmacy we chose had a most beautiful interior with antique carved wood shelves containing old apothecary jars and a stamped tin ceiling. I was trying to pick up some radio salil, a cream someone recommended for tendonitis, assuming that is what is troubling my ankle. They were out so had to wait for a courier to delivery it. While waiting I asked, in Spanish if you can believe that, if there was something better than ibuprofen for my ankle. He kindly provided me with another type of anti-inflammatory that he said was better and could be taken at the same time as the cream. I was set!

We left at a record late time, even for us - 10:15. The walk out of Leon was almost as long and tiring as the walk into Burgos with most all of it on concrete sidewalks and through an industrial district. Just before we were to depart from the concrete jungle, we stopped at another kind of jungle - an African themed tavern where we had a great tortilla patata before we headed out in hopes of finding a dirt trail so soften the blow to our joints.

African Tavern

Just up the hill, there were several bodegas carved into it's walls. Unfortunately, we had to walk another 4 kilometres before we arrived at La Virgen del Camino where we finally found the dirt paths we so longed for. And that was only after much deliberation on which way to go as there was an option of two paths and the markings for them were very poor and confusing. We were relieved to find the beloved yellow arrows further down the road to let us know were were indeed on the right path.

Lovely in the Middle

It was not to last. A mere 5.5 kilometres later, we were back on pavement until we arrived at our albergue in Villar de Mazarif. It was now shortly after six and we had just enough time to get checked in and settled before it was time for dinner. Although we had planned to be in a room with all our fellow pilgrims, we somehow misunderstood the hospitalero and thought the only beds left were in an individual room so we ended up in a private room with our own shower. Probably an okay thing because I started coughing once again as soon as my head hit the pillow.This is where the "lovely in the middle" came to fruition. I can't describe this section of the path in any other way. It was not beautiful. It was not breathtaking. It was simply lovely. There were sections of the countryside that were tamed with fields but other sections that were wild with flowers. Tamed and wild, side by side. We were traveling slow because of my ankle issues and we were not sorry for it. A delightful lunch in the shade of a tree surrounded by flowers made this part of our day's journey perfect.

Our dinner was with all of our pilgrim friends who had also made it this far. We will be sad when we know we will no longer see these special people.

Lesson for the Day: Sometimes the loveliest of times are sandwiched between difficult ones. Perhaps it helps us appreciate them more.

 

 

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Resting in Leon - Day 24 (May 7)

I have changed my preferred coffee drink from a cappaccino to a coffee cortado. This is basically an espresso with a dash of milk. There isn't much there but the flavor is bold with just a little sweetness.

Leon is the perfect city for a rest day. There are eateries all along the street leading to the cathedral square - an ideal spot to people watch and see fellow peregrinos. And I did a lot of that today. After a trip to a pharmacy for more medical supplies and a stop at an outdoor store for socks and waterproofing spray (our rain covers and my jacket failed us during the previous rain), we found the physical therepist recommended by so many. And he said ice, foot up, no walking and come back at 3:00 for some therapy. So sit and watch I did, until 3:00.

Leon Cathedral Stained Glass

Walking back toward the cathedral square, we were pleased to come upon Bill & Jean. They had just arrived and would be spending a rest day in Leon tomorrow so we will be ahead of them by a day again. I'm sure we willThe physical therapist was wonderful. His small office was in an original old building with Roman walls, medieval walls and a rock floor. After some electrotheraphy, ultrasound, massage and taping I was on my way. But not without telling me that I was to only carry 10% of my body weight, drink 4 litres of water each day, and walk at my pace not anyone elses. He called the meseta a "silent trap" and regularly saw its captives.

After my treatment, we took a tour of the gothic Leon Cathedral. What a beautiful church with an interesting history. The light inside was filtered through huge panels of the most exquisite stained glass I have ever seen. It is through an engineering feat that the building still remains today. It seems that when the church was built an engineering error resulted in potential demise when ceiling pillars started to crumble. Alarmed, villagers trusted their beautiful church to a new engineer who essentially took all the stained glass windows apart as well as the ceiling and reconstructed it over wooden bracing. The town collectively held it's breath as the bracing was removed and the new settled onto the old. A church saved!

Outside the Cathedral

We enjoyed our dinner at Hostal Albany so much that we all went back there again tonight. This time we were escorted downstairs where we had a private room to ourselves. Tony bought everyone champagne to celebrate his birthday. Such a wonderful end to a relaxing day.

Lesson of the Day: Walk the camino my way - at my pace.

 

 

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On to Leon - Day 23 (May 6)

The meseta is deceptive. The repetitive action of the muscles and tendons without the relief hills and valleys provide puts far greater stress on them than one realizes. We have many pilgrims in our midst limping and sharing stories of swollen ankles and shin splints and I now find myself in their company.

A late start out of Mansanilla had us traveling in solitude for some distance, that is if you can call walking on a road right next to the highway solitude. In fact, after a time I decided to once again plug my ears with music in hopes of blocking out some of the noise.

I have been on the lookout for livestock as we have been walking all this time through the meseta. We have really only once seen a few cows. Now, as we walk through a little town, we find what we should have seen in the country - a dairy. Yep, right smack in the middle of the town. Surely the town must come into being as an extension of the dairy as I could not imagine a town that was already in existence allowing for the aromas that result from such an enterprise.

At the outskirts Viillarente we came upon a band of pilgrims gathered outside a little restaurant. The description of their mushroom omelets had us convinced we needed to try one despite already having had a decent breakfast. It was bonissimo (a new term we have learned for something this is exceptionally good). We discovered that the young lady helping in the restaurant was in fact a pilgrim from Hungary. She was asked if she was interested in working there for a time so she decided to do that before she continued on her way to Santiago.

Fred with Former City Mayor

There was a medieval bridge leading from this little restaurant into the village but a path just for pilgrims had been created that took us alongside it. As we were walking a man about our age stopped us and thanked us for being in his city. It turned out he, Jose Luis, had been the mayor of the city for 25 years. It was he who had made the pilgrim bridge happen. He was worried about pilgrims crossing the medieval bridge as it was so very narrow that when two vehicles passed, a pilgrim had to press against the side of the bridge to keep from being hit. We are thankful he did. A picture of him with the bridge in the background and a selfie he took of him with us and we were on our way again.

Since the distance from Mansilla to Leon was a mere 18.6 kilometres, I thought I would just carry my backpack today. I was immediately sorry I made that choice. I could feel a significant difference in the pressure on my ankle so started looking for an albergue in the next town where I could hopefully deposit it for transfer to Leon. I was relieved to find one a short distance further. An Australian couple we had been walking with decided they would take a taxi in from the albergue where I deposited my backpack. I will try everything possible short of not walking to continue on this journey to Santiago. I do not want to resort to taking a taxi.

A little further up the road, we saw some men walking in the field carrying baskets. Now men carrying baskets that had the appearance of Easter baskets seemed a little strange and although we were quite certain they were picking mushrooms, we had to investigate. Indeed we were right and the gentleman I talked to let me take a picture of his precious conquest.

Blue Butterfly

We keep seeing storks atop virtually all tall buildings in Spain. This time we could see there were some little babies, their little heads just peaking out over the top of the massive nest. We also saw several blue butterflies in this section of the path. They were much more cooperative for picture taking than the precious day and I didn't have to go through all kinds of contortions just to capture them digitally. Somehow saying that does not seem nearly as romantic as saying capturing them on film but that is today's reality!

Arriving in the outskirts of Leon, we were invited to join a German lady, Viana, in a celebratory glass of wine as Leon was her destination for this year's camino. She had done the previous section in two separate years and will come back and do the next couple of sections in the years ahead. This probably seems a sensible way to do the camino so you aren't taxing the body so much but I am glad we are attempting it in one fell swoop, as they say.

Our first agenda in Leon was to find a place to stay. Again, many people make reservations ahead of their arrival but we like to just see what we can find. Sometimes this is a good thing and sometimes not so much but either way, we like the adventure of it. This time we found a nice room at Hostel Albany. We miss staying at the albergues because we feel like staying there is more a part of the camino experience but I was still coughing too much to be comfortable doing so. After this stay in Leon, I should be ready to once again join the rest of the world instead of the self-induced exile of recent days.

Leon Catedral

The Cathedral is definitely the focus point in Leon taking a commanding presence in the center of town. We attempted to attend mass there but had a terrible time finding the chapel so only were there for the very last part. We plan to tour the inside sometime tomorrow.

Leaving there, we met Ralph, Mary Beth & Paul from CA, Barbara & Steven, Denise & Ron, & Peter from Ireland for some appetizers before we proceeded on for an absolutely wonderful peregrino meal at the hotel where we were staying. While everyone else headed back to their respective places, Fred and I sat and looked at the lit cathedral and watched people go by. Wonder what tomorrow will bring.

Lesson of the Day: Sometimes it is a good idea to send the backpack ahead.

 

 

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